01 · Before and after

The room was small. The fixtures made it smaller.

The corner shower ate up the left side of the room. The pedestal sink gave us nowhere to put anything, and the chrome shower frame and cool gray floor broke the room into even smaller pieces. None of it was terrible on its own. Together, it felt cramped and temporary.

Wide view of the original bathroom with pedestal sink, fiberglass shower, and toilet

Before

Bathroom after renovation, showing glass shower and modern toilet

After

The new layout did not add an inch to the room. Clear glass, pale tile, closed vanity storage, and a warmer mix of wood and brass simply stopped every fixture from fighting for attention.

Bathroom vanity wall before renovation

Before

Bathroom vanity wall after renovation

After

02 · The layout

How we fit a 48″ × 42″ shower into a tiny bathroom

We did not want a tiny shower just because the bathroom is tiny. Before anything was installed, we measured, drew it out, and taped different configurations directly onto the new subfloor. There was not enough room to be casual about an inch.

Early measured floor plan for the compact basement bathroom
The early plan. The pocket-door note did not survive, but the fixture sizes did.
Bathroom layout marked in red on the plywood subfloor
Trying the vanity on the left and checking every clearance.
Alternate bathroom layout marked in red on the plywood subfloor
Then flipping it around to make sure the first idea was actually the best one.

The frameless glass keeps the enclosure from visually cutting the room in half, and the 30-inch vanity finally gives us closed storage. A normal swing door on the shower would have collided with the toilet, so the glass became its own little design problem. We ended up using a barn-door-style panel that slides instead of swinging into the only open patch of floor.

The other space-saving door

The original bathroom door also swung into the room. We replaced it with an 80-inch solid-core pine door on a concealed barn-door track. The hardware disappears above the opening, so it reads like an old paneled door instead of farmhouse barn-door hardware. A flush pull on the bathroom side lets the door slide fully out of the way.

Original hinged bathroom door swinging into the small room
The old hinged door took up usable floor space.
Stained solid-core bathroom door installed on a concealed sliding track
The stained pine door slides along a hidden track.
Brass pull on the stained sliding bathroom door
A brass pull outside and a flush pull inside keep the door functional from both sides.

03 · What we used

Every finish and fixture we used

I included prices where I still have them. A few of the Amazon pieces were open-box finds, so our price may not be available again.

About the links: These are ordinary product links right now. If any becomes an affiliate link, it will be labeled here beside the link. Read the full disclosure.

Shower fixture · $456Delta, Amazon open box · $520 retail before the rough-in valve
Faucet · $126Delta, Amazon open box · $174 retail
Toilet · $209Compact Amazon toilet · 24⅝-inch depth
Door · $20980-inch unfinished pine solid-core door from Lowe’s on a concealed barn-door track
Wall finish · $112Vasari Mineral Primer + Paint, Fossile No. 15, flat
StainMinwax Honey oil-based stain from Lowe’s
Door handleRestoration Hardware
Light · $133Monulo Metio Dome Vanity Wall Light

Prices are what we paid at the time, not promises about what they cost today. The Vasari order left us with roughly half the product for another project.

04 · The walls

The Vasari paint was scary at first

We used Vasari Mineral Primer and Paint in Fossile No. 15, flat. I started by hand-brushing the walls and very quickly wondered what I had gotten myself into. It was slow, patchy, and honestly looked a little terrifying while it was wet.

First coat of Vasari mineral paint going onto the bathroom wall
The point where I was not at all convinced this was going to work.

The trick was rolling it on in a small patch and immediately swiping over it with the brush before moving to the next section. That made the application much faster while keeping the brushed movement in the finish. The wet area is fully tiled, the room has ventilation, and the mineral finish stays outside the shower. I will update this once it has had enough daily use to say something useful about wear.

05 · The floor and labor

The step was hiding a much bigger problem

We are not tilers, and I wanted the waterproofing and tile installation done correctly. We also used a plumber for the rough-in and had the shower glass made for the room. We handled the plumbing trim-out, staining and installing the sliding door, and the rest of the finish work.

The old bathroom was built up, which meant stepping into it from the brick hallway. Once demolition started, we found that the cracked fiberglass shower base had been leaking for years. The floor beneath it was not just damaged. It was completely rotted out.

Original basement bathroom floor raised above the brick hallway
The original step into the bathroom.
Derrick examining the severely rotted bathroom floor during demolition
The moment we realized how far the water damage had spread.
Bathroom floor removed to expose joists, plumbing, and Richmond red clay
The entire floor came out, down to the joists, plumbing, and red clay.
Lowered bathroom floor waterproofed and ready for hex tile installation
The rebuilt floor sits level with the hallway, with no step at the door.

The floor was lowered roughly two inches into Richmond’s hard red clay so the new tile could sit level with the hallway. I am sharing fixture and finish prices because those are useful if you like something in the room, but I am not publishing one dramatic grand total. The excavation and water-damage repair were specific to this basement. Rolling that into the price of a vanity and calling it the “cost of a small bathroom” would not tell anyone much.